Tomorrow will be all about the Kurdish Elections. The Region is on high alert, as there is a curfew in all areas that begins at midnight and lasts until 6pm tomorrow. The polls officially open at 8am, but it is rumored that there will be Obama like lines all over the Region. I am upset that I will be stuck in Erbil tomorrow, as I wanted to go to Sulaimaniya, where I believe most of the election drama will be. It is nearly impossible to gain security clearance for a specific area of the region unless you are physically there. I have all credentials in place to cover the Election action in Erbil tomorrow. So, with all that said ground zero will be the Kurdistan capital. Today however, I was able to speak with some very humble, yet aggressively proud young Kurdish men.
The three young men, each with very different experiences, felt an overwhelming responsibility to use their education and energy specifically for the land of their ancestors. This self-imposed burden is not only connected to a cultural relationship with the past, but a political vision for what this region of Iraq has the potential of becoming. It is however evident that no matter how much the KRG has done to develop the Region and provide social infrastructure, that there is still not enough opportunity for young men or women who want to take the skills developed in other parts world and bring them back to develop Kurdistan.
With each passing day I become more and more interested in learning more about the Kurds. The challenge for me is that I am trying to do a cultural story in the midst of a very political moment. As a political scientist, I enjoy the electoral process and the study of those pushing to utilize its power. But I am enjoying the human connection and learning some of the social and cultural norms of the Kurdish people. I have immensely enjoyed the hospitality of both young and old; wealthy and common. There is a proud humility that is coupled with an aggressive love for their people that I see in the way many work and interact. I am not romanticizing a people I don’t fully know, but I am thankful for the introduction and look forward to knowing more.
Tonight…I have to review footage…..Tomorrow…the election. Check you later.
]]>I have had a difficult time connecting online and have had intermittent internet usage. So with my constraints here is a quick and dirty update. I am in this part of the world with the self-imposed task of producing a documentary that will introduce the Kurdish people of Iraq and the election process to my fellow US citizens.
I have had a whirlwind experience, so much so that I have not stopped to breathe since my arrival. Even now it is 4:30am and I am reviewing footage in my room and eating some quite impressive baklava…if you’re in to that kind of desert. Let me remain focused here and talk about my time here thus far.
The team tasked with constructing the documentary are four black men from the US, an uncommon site in these parts. We touched ground at 3pm local time yesterday. From the airport we literally sped to our hotel, which rests on a picturesque hill nearly 15 km outside of Erbil; or as I have learned to say today the Kurdistan Region of Northern Iraq. Not 30 minutes after dropping our bags in the hotel, I was able to connect with a new friend and fellow journalist from the Netherlands named Vladimir. Vladimir was willing, ready, and prepared to meet me at the Erbil headquarters of the Gorran, also known as the CHANGE Party. This party has provided the loudest and most critical opposition of the ruling coalition party of the Kurdish Regional Government (KRG) for the upcoming elections on July 25th. I thought I was simply going to meet Vladimir at the office, meet some of the Gorran officials, and perhaps get our first interview of the trip. In the midst of my crash course in Kurdish democratic posturing, I was bombarded by Gorran accusations of government corruption, and party manipulation by the ruling coalition party (PUK & PDK). As the night continued, a report came into headquarters that several Gorran supporters had allegedly been beaten by security forces and were prepared to speak with us on camera. After driving on what seemed like the search for a unicorn, we caught up with the battered supporters at another Gorran office. While it was obvious that they had been attacked or in a fight, there was no clear evidence of who had actually done the bruising.
This experience was upsetting, but also strangely encouraging. I condemn any notion of injustice or brutality on the part of institutions that have pledged to serve, and thus was concerned by the possibility of this story being true. I was however excited about the fact that such a young democracy was already dealing with the presence of very vocal and somewhat mobilized opposition movement. It is important to mention that the Gorran party is only one of several that are posing an opposition. Additionally, the views of those parties are much more ideologically and in some cases religiously extreme. Each is challenging an aspect of the ruling coalition party and what they have or have not done for the Region and its people. This is exciting because no government is free of corruption, and it is the responsibility of a healthy democracy to call for accountability. After one day on the ground in Kurdistan one thing is clear. From the opposition rallies in Sulaimaniya to the Christians I saw dancing and singing in the streets for the current leader, President Massoud Barzani, to the overall spirit of excitement and anticipation from the Kurdish people, all prove that these elections are not being taken for granted. So for a region of the world that could use a healthy model for democracy, the Kurds are working to provide one.
As my 5 hours in Erbil was coming to an end, I was reflective. I have to say that the Kurdish Regional Government should be applauded for creating the kind of environment that encourages this type of expression. The end of my day did not signify the end, but rather the beginning of our task to capture more. Thursday was just as busy, and gave us the opportunity to speak with some amazing Kurdish people. Check my next entry..coming sooner than you think and follow me on Twitter.
]]>I must admit that I was impressed with the Youth and College Division’s focus on international issues. The panel that I was able to be a part of was pragmatic and focused, providing those both young and seasoned some practical recommendations of how to be involved in international issues. Take a look at some of my remarks @ NAACP Convention, and as always, I welcome your thoughts.
For more on the NAACP, you can log onto NAACP.org.
]]>Despite my great experiences, there is a very important story that needs to be told with a level of depth. The political and social reality here is encouraging, but not perfect. From where I sit that is ok, but it will take real care to introduce this piece to an audience that doesnt know very much about the Kurds. I hope you will watch. Stay tuned.
Jeff
]]>Blessings
]]>Jeff
]]>What made the trip (well the taxi ride to the runway) more amusing was the fact that nothing about the onboard experience felt like an international flight. I told my twitter friends last night that when I closed my eyes I could have sworn I went through a time warp back to my college days in Ohio when I was taking the Greyhound from Toledo to Cleveland. Euro Bey Bey Kids RUNNING and crawling around the cabin, obnoxiously loud Austrian Uncles, and the smallest coach seats all made for a memorable delay.
Well, that behind me I now sit in Vienna, stuck for the day in light of my late departure from JFK. Now I can think of worse places to be stranded for 24 hours, but I already was under a tight schedule for Iraq. SO…my friends. One more day before I can show you a bit of Iraq. You can always follow me on Twitter as well. Stay with me and keep me in your prayers.
Jeff
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